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Recreating a Dream

Rebuilding a 1968 Dodge Coronet 500

I bought my first car my senior year in high school. It was an AWESOME car that was the source (or contributing factor) to many wonderful memories — cruising Main Street, dates, dances, and just having fun. In 2022 I decided to recreate that car and — along the way — acquire skills I didn’t have: welding, metal fabrication, body work, painting, etc. These pages document the work I’ve done – and am currently doing – and the lessons I’ve learned along the way.

Back in the day

Here are some pictures of my first car.

6

Fast Forward to 2022 – New Beginnings

Here’s what I bought on eBay from a guy in College Station, TX. I purposely purchased a car with lots of special needs which would allow/require me to learn some things about auto restoration

The Beast
The grill looks good. Love the 500 badging!
The original 318 has been replaced with a working 400.
The back end has taken a beating.
The windshield is cracked.
The dash needs some attention.
The dash pad is cracked and weathered.
The seat covers are shot.
The generations of mice didn’t make the trip.
Cleaned out, there’s a lot of rust…
…and holes in the back seat floor.
And the trunk pan is completely shot.
The corners of the trunk are rusted.
As is the rest the lip of the trunk.
And the trunk lid is rusted through.
More rust on the trunk lid.
Yipes!
The bumpers are shot.
And virtually every inch of the car has bumps and bruises…
… and repairs …
… and bondo …
… and patches …
… and more bondo …
… and some pop rivets to hold it all together.
More repairs that need to be repaired.
Everywhere.
Yep, everywhere.
Most of the frame is fairly solid underneath the rust …
… but some frame will need to be replaced.

Let’s start at the end (the tail end)

I thought I’d eat this elephant of a project by starting in the rear, which has most of the problem. I figured I’d start here because I really can’t make things any worse than they already are!

Where to begin????
First, I removed and tagged any reusable items like this bumper bracket.
Then I cut away as much rusted metal as I could.
Daylight.
I see I have to replace the driver side frame rail as it’s too far gone.
Same with the crossmember.
I bought a used frame rail from Arizona Valley Car Parts.
I ground and polished it up.
Here’s what I’m looking to do.
Checking for fitment.
Since a butt weld won’t be strong enough, I fashioned two plates which I bolted to the inside.
I welded the inside and then welded and ground the bolts to almost flush.

With the frame rail replaced, I turned my attention to the rusted out parts of the quarterpanels.

The bottom of the passenger quarterpanel is first.
It’s a tricky piece with lots of bends.
So I decided to do it in four sections (the fourth is the back).
I had acquired some hoods for metal (later I just bought sheets of 18 gauge steel).
I used my bench to make the bends …
… but the bend isn’t smooth.
So I bought an English Wheel to help shape metal.
And I picked up a planishing hammer to also shape.
Making sure it fits properly, I use Cleco fasteners.
Then I cut and weld and cut and weld.
Meanwhile, I cut out pieces for sections 2 and 3.
And weld them in. As you can see, my welding is pretty bad (some of it’s because of the crappy metal).
But everything tends to grind out nicely.
Section 4 is the most challenging (it will be the most challenging fabrication on the whole car!).
English Wheel to the rescue.
Along with my new tool, the stretcher-shrinker.
Fabricating the driver side piece.
Creative cutting, welding, …
and grinding …
… and it turns out pretty good. (This section will be covered by the rear bumper, so I’m happy!)
Now for the passenger side.
Cut, shape, weld, …
… and grind.
Not bad!

By now I’m getting more comfortable with my welding (knowing how easy it is to grind away bad welds!)

I cut the wheelwells at the high spot and trimmed about two inches from the trunk.
Boy was that a mess cutting through the undercoating. (I purchased a respirator and full face mask after this!)
With sections of the wheel wells out, I could do some repairs to the rusted pieces.
Like this section …
… and this section …
… and the bottom inside edges which had rusted out.
I welded in the repaired piece …
… which left the two-inch gap.
I welded in fitted pieces.
I tried to do a clean job …
… but it was challenging!
Now that the wheel wells are inboard two inches, the trunk hinge support needed some tweaking.
I cut and fabricated a piece.
And did some shaping …
… and grinding.
Not bad!
And now I have two more inches for rubber.
Fast forward: Here’s what it looks like with some bondo and paint.

With this optional work out of the way, it was time to quit procrastinating and get to the biggest bodywork challenge: the rear window. The rear window was SO bad that there was no way to repair it; I could only replace it. Unlike trunk pans and floor pans and fenders, no one manufactures replacement rear windows. So, I reached out to my friends at Desert Valley Auto Parts in Arizona, who cut a rear window out of a donor car and shipped it up to New Hampshire.

Repairing this was beyond my capability.
Wow!
Here’s my donor piece.
I measured a hundred times to make sure the donor and original would match …
… both inside and out.
Mating the insides was the bigger of the challenges as there are lots of support pieces.
I think we’re ready.
Mating the donor and original.
The top looks good.
As do the sides.
I had to cut the package tray to allow the donor to flex and squeeze into the original.
Tack welding the donor to the original.
Welding and grinding.
Welding the package tray back up.
I decided to replace the 4×6 speaker hole with the 6×9 hole from the original. Here’s my template.
With a little welding and grinding, I now have matching 6×9 speaker holes.

Another challenge was the tail panel. It was in pretty rough shape:

There are two types of work with the tail panel: the trim (see the top picture) and the metal (the bottom picture); both needed significant attention.

I pounded out the little dents from this soft aluminum panel.
I then masked off the sections that weren’t to receive paint.
I put a couple of coats of black matte paint and the peeled off the masking. It turned out great!
The taillights received the same treatment.
And turned out great!
There were, of course, issues like cracked lenses that needed to be fixed.
Now onto the metal. There were problems …
… LOTS of problems.
Everywhere there was rust (if there was any metal at all!)
I fabricated this piece behind the latch.
And then I welded the latch piece back on.
Getting into full production mode, I cut patches for each of the nine holes.
Some of the repairs were quite challenging …
… while others were pretty straight forward.
I had to guess at some patches since there was no metal remaining for me to use as a template.
Supports needed welding.
the taillight housings were the worst!
They needed lots of fabrication and welding.
I was pleased with the results (after the grinding :))

Okay! We’re getting there with the back half. We replaced the rotted frame section. We replaced the rear window with a donor. We mini-tubbed the wheel wells. And we repaired the tail panel. Now let’s complete the back half.

I welded the rear crossmember and bumper plates …
… before welding in the trunk floor and drops (the prefabricated pieces that attach the pan to the quarter panels).
There were a couple of repairs to be made along the way …
… including these trunk lid supports which had rusted through.
And the trunk lip was rusted.
I cut out the lip pieces …
… and checked the prefabbed pieces for fitment.
I welded in the driver’s side …
… and then the passenger’s side lip.
Then more grinding (and welding and grinding).
Finally, I welded on the tail panel …
… which sealed up — and completed — the metal portion …
… of the tail end.
A little primer (okay, and yes, a little bondo) …
… and we’re done (for now).

In order to make sure the bare metal didn’t start rusting, I decided to finish the rear by using some bondo where necessary and to spray epoxy primer on any exposed surfaces.

Okay, let’s finish up the rear. I stripped everything to bare metal.
I used my hammer and anvil to pound straight high and low spots a put down bondo. (In the future, I will spray with epoxy primer first.)
Bondo to fill in the spots that didn’t grind out.
Yeah, I was a bit aggressive on the bondo.
After using a sanding sponge, I bought a bunch of sanding blocks, which gave a much straighter finish.
I used a spray to help me determine low spots.
After repeated coats of bondo followed by sanding, I sprayed epoxy primer to seal everything up for now.
Nice and straight.
Relatively smooth corners.
From rusted holes to a nice finish.
Everything’s looking good!
Nice!
Very nice!
I filled in the gap between the quarter panel and dutchman panel for a smooth look.
And that’s it until I get to the painting.

Although I work in the garage most of the time, when it gets bitter cold — or I want something else to do — I can work in the basement of my house. One of the more significant basement projects was recovering my front bucket seats and the rear seat and back.

I removed the seat coverings, foam, and burlap.
It was a dusty, dirty job.
The springs and frames were in okay shape so I cleaned them up with a wire brush.
I painted the cores with Rustoleum.
I covered the frame with canvas to protect the soon-to-be-installed foam.
I got pretty good at hog-ringing!
The foam goes on …
… and then the seat covers (which I had purchased from Legendary Auto).
And there we are; the bucket seat bottoms are done.
I repeated the process for the bucket seat tops.
And then I cleaned up and lubricated the seat adjustment hardware and reattached it.
On to the back seat. This is the bottom and isn’t in too bad of shape. However, because I mini-tubbed the wheel wells, I had to make some adjustments to the rear corners of the frame.
I followed the same process as with the bucket seats: canvas foam, seat cover.
I put on a little extra foam …
… before trying to fit the cover.
I had to use clamps to compress the springs so the cover would fit.
Ta da! Nice and snug all around.
The seat back frame was pretty bad with parts of the frame rusted out completely and many springs rusted away partially or completely.
I used springs from another seat to reinforce the weak springs.

Another basement project was the center console. This car is an automatic with the shifter on the floor encased in a very cool console that has a lockable storage area and floor lights. Unfortunately, the plastic part of the console was so brittle that it disintegrated when I tried to work on it. And the metal parts weren’t much better.

I removed the metal chromed top and polished it up. I disassembled the indicator pieces and cleaned them up.
I removed the storage top …
… as well as the lock and polished and lubricated the lock and springs.
I removed and polished the badging.
And, you can see how badly rusted pieces were. Fortunately, this is all just surface rust.
Clean an polish …
… including the light mounts.
I bought new wiring and lenses for the floor lights.
And reassembled the storage top …
… and the gear selector indicator.
I painted some pieces.
And voila! A better-than-new console!
Nice!

Another basement project was the heater box. There was no heater box when I bought the car, so my buddy Randy found one for me at Chryslers in Carlisle (PA). It looked pretty good. Until …

There was some surface rust on all the metal pieces.
But everything seemed to be functional.
When I opened up the box, it was clear that this had once housed some rodents.
I cleaned up all the pieces.
And checked the electricals to make sure the fan worked.
I checked the radiator-thingy for holes.
And I reassembled everything. (This is a picture of the heater box before I painted the metal pieces.)

One of the optional things I did was inspired by Chris Birdsong’s video (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1qOeqMfMKV0) on subframe connectors. While I don’t envision my Coronet creating the torque that would require stiffening the frame, I thought it would be fun and — with the floor pan out — relatively easy to do.

Using a piece of wood, I mocked up the connector which would tie the rear frame to the front frame.
This allowed me to identify where the connector would pass through the floor support.
I marked both sides and then cut the floor support.
The mock up fit perfectly …
… and tied the rear …
… to the front.
I then cut the 2×2″ tubing to match the mock-up.
The front required a bit of finesse.
The driver side needed a hole for the emergency brake cable so I drilled a hole and pounded a tube through the hole …
I welded and ground it fairly smooth.
Before welding, I made sure to make sure the frame was level all around. Here a top view of the subframe connectors.
Here’s a view from below.
Another bottom view.
And still another (yes, I’m kind of proud of this work).
A little paint …
… and we’re done!

And still another basement project was refinishing the glovebox lid and the lower dash pad. I had an extra set of each so I could select the best after my refinishing.

This is the original glovebox lid from the car.
And here’s another glovebox cover.
The hinge is stripped and painted.
The lower dash pad gets a scrubbing …
… as does the second lower dash pad.
I then used a black vinyl spray to give the lower dash pads a freshened look.
I even sprayed the backs.
The glove box lid received a coat of the vinyl spray.
As did the second lid.
And the backs.
What the heck, I might as well spray the dash vents as well.

Okay, let’s get back to the car and do some more bodywork. I had purchased floor pans for the trunk and the front of the car, but the back seat floor pans needed quite a bit of work. As you recall from the original photos, some rodents had made a home in the back seat and their nesting material — over decades — had rusted areas of the back seat floor.

After cleaning out the rodents’ nest, here’s the damage.
Lots of holes and weak metal.
I used a cutting wheel to cut out the bad spots, including this big piece (we’re under the car looking up through the bottom).
Here’s the cancerous piece …
… which will serve as the template in creating the new piece.
I rough out the bends. The wooden dowel will be used to shape a rounded section in the new piece, trying to replicate the old piece as much as possible.
After pounding, bending, cutting and welding, the new piece is ready to be welded in.
However, we have another big piece that needs to be replicated.
Cutting it out …
… and welding it in.
Now both pieces are welded in …
… and I do some fine tuning with my metal hammer and a grinding wheel.
There were a couple of other pieces that needed replacement …
… including one under the passenger rear seat.
Tacking it into place
Ta da.
Here’s the final work before paint.
And now with a coat of epoxy primer.
Here’s the underside of the rear seat pan
Oh, I had to recreate one of the hooks that holds the bottom back seat in place.
Not bad.

Meanwhile, back in the basement, I worked on the instrument panel and switch panel.

First, I took the gauges out of the panel.
I carefully cleaned everything up.
Including the speedometer …
… and the ammeter and gas gauge.
After removing all the switches, I cleaned and then spraypainted the plate flat black.
I reinstalled the switches …
… and painted the raised lettering with a white paint pen.

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